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	<title>Comments on: Fixing The Guitar Hero World Tour Guitar Strum</title>
	<atom:link href="http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/2009/06/fixing-the-guitar-hero-world-tour-guitar-strum/feed/" rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" />
	<link>http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/2009/06/fixing-the-guitar-hero-world-tour-guitar-strum/</link>
	<description>Celebrating all things fake, plastic, and ROCK!</description>
	<lastBuildDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 03:27:45 +0000</lastBuildDate>
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		<title>By: cheap jerseys</title>
		<link>http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/2009/06/fixing-the-guitar-hero-world-tour-guitar-strum/comment-page-1/#comment-15919</link>
		<dc:creator>cheap jerseys</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Sat, 04 Sep 2010 03:23:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/?p=741#comment-15919</guid>
		<description>hey buddy,this is one of the best posts that I’ve ever seen; you may include some more ideas in the same theme. I’m still waiting for some interesting thoughts from your side in your next post.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>hey buddy,this is one of the best posts that I’ve ever seen; you may include some more ideas in the same theme. I’m still waiting for some interesting thoughts from your side in your next post.</p>
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		<title>By: Max K</title>
		<link>http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/2009/06/fixing-the-guitar-hero-world-tour-guitar-strum/comment-page-1/#comment-11808</link>
		<dc:creator>Max K</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 21 Oct 2009 21:31:39 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/?p=741#comment-11808</guid>
		<description>Does this happen to all GH:WT controllers at some point or another? I know that it&#039;s specifically mentioned that &quot;batches&quot; get this problem, but is it more or less like breaking your RB1 foot pedal?
I&#039;m buying a GH:WT controller soon because the wire on my GH2 controller wore out and no longer works (by the way, the cardboard inserts for the fret buttons worked beautifully).

Please leave me an email at lennonisdaman333@gmail.com
Thanks!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Does this happen to all GH:WT controllers at some point or another? I know that it&#8217;s specifically mentioned that &#8220;batches&#8221; get this problem, but is it more or less like breaking your RB1 foot pedal?<br />
I&#8217;m buying a GH:WT controller soon because the wire on my GH2 controller wore out and no longer works (by the way, the cardboard inserts for the fret buttons worked beautifully).</p>
<p>Please leave me an email at <a href="mailto:lennonisdaman333@gmail.com">lennonisdaman333@gmail.com</a><br />
Thanks!</p>
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		<title>By: Simon</title>
		<link>http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/2009/06/fixing-the-guitar-hero-world-tour-guitar-strum/comment-page-1/#comment-11518</link>
		<dc:creator>Simon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Wed, 07 Oct 2009 21:08:44 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/?p=741#comment-11518</guid>
		<description>it works great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

i djust replaced the switch and ik works houw it shout!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>it works great!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!</p>
<p>i djust replaced the switch and ik works houw it shout!</p>
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		<title>By: Simon</title>
		<link>http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/2009/06/fixing-the-guitar-hero-world-tour-guitar-strum/comment-page-1/#comment-11422</link>
		<dc:creator>Simon</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 02 Oct 2009 02:00:18 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/?p=741#comment-11422</guid>
		<description>wel i got the same problem here in the netherlands.
tomorow i will get the switch from a store in town(if the have them)
and thake the dawm thing apart!(and try to fix it)
i will report if it helpt.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>wel i got the same problem here in the netherlands.<br />
tomorow i will get the switch from a store in town(if the have them)<br />
and thake the dawm thing apart!(and try to fix it)<br />
i will report if it helpt.</p>
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		<title>By: j.kent.r</title>
		<link>http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/2009/06/fixing-the-guitar-hero-world-tour-guitar-strum/comment-page-1/#comment-8389</link>
		<dc:creator>j.kent.r</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Mon, 22 Jun 2009 14:34:09 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/?p=741#comment-8389</guid>
		<description>I just did this fix this last weekend!  Happened to the same site as you referred, the powertunesplus site.  I have to say, once I got the radio shack switches installed, that GH:WT guitar finally worked like it should!   Amazing difference, and totally worth doing!</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>I just did this fix this last weekend!  Happened to the same site as you referred, the powertunesplus site.  I have to say, once I got the radio shack switches installed, that GH:WT guitar finally worked like it should!   Amazing difference, and totally worth doing!</p>
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		<title>By: Jeff Atwood</title>
		<link>http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/2009/06/fixing-the-guitar-hero-world-tour-guitar-strum/comment-page-1/#comment-8247</link>
		<dc:creator>Jeff Atwood</dc:creator>
		<pubDate>Fri, 19 Jun 2009 02:00:25 +0000</pubDate>
		<guid isPermaLink="false">http://www.fakeplasticrock.com/?p=741#comment-8247</guid>
		<description>Some de-soldering tips from my friend Dana:

---

Just read your FPR post and I thought I&#039;d share some geek soldering advice.

1) Desoldering is a lot easier with a solder sucker.  They are like $10-20 at Radio Shack (or Fry&#039;s?) and I find the plastic ones more durable than the metal ones.  The soldering iron + sucker combos kind of suck so I&#039;ve always gone with the manual solution.  They also sell solder wick but I don&#039;t find it works very well.

2) Instead of a third hand, you can grab a part gently with a small pair of vice grips, turn the piece upside down and support the edges with some wood blocks and the weight will pull it out as it frees up.  A good base with some alligator clips rules, though.  Sometimes you can also wedge a pocket screwdriver under a big part like a relay or switch and push it out.  An advantage of the screwdriver wedge is that the screwdriver acts as a heat sink.

3) You always want to remove all the old solder and use new solder.  The old solder can oxidize from the heat and provide a lousy connection.  Look at how oxidized Josh&#039;s new connections are compared to the original.  It&#039;s hard to see with the flux, but solder should be shiny and pretty and his is really dull.

4) If you are doing a big de/soldering job near surface mount components, you want to be really careful about controlling the board temperature.  I&#039;ve seen quite a few of them get pushed out of place when the board gets hot enough to soften their solder.

Anyway, I used to do a lot of electronics repair work so I thought I&#039;d share.</description>
		<content:encoded><![CDATA[<p>Some de-soldering tips from my friend Dana:</p>
<p>&#8212;</p>
<p>Just read your FPR post and I thought I&#8217;d share some geek soldering advice.</p>
<p>1) Desoldering is a lot easier with a solder sucker.  They are like $10-20 at Radio Shack (or Fry&#8217;s?) and I find the plastic ones more durable than the metal ones.  The soldering iron + sucker combos kind of suck so I&#8217;ve always gone with the manual solution.  They also sell solder wick but I don&#8217;t find it works very well.</p>
<p>2) Instead of a third hand, you can grab a part gently with a small pair of vice grips, turn the piece upside down and support the edges with some wood blocks and the weight will pull it out as it frees up.  A good base with some alligator clips rules, though.  Sometimes you can also wedge a pocket screwdriver under a big part like a relay or switch and push it out.  An advantage of the screwdriver wedge is that the screwdriver acts as a heat sink.</p>
<p>3) You always want to remove all the old solder and use new solder.  The old solder can oxidize from the heat and provide a lousy connection.  Look at how oxidized Josh&#8217;s new connections are compared to the original.  It&#8217;s hard to see with the flux, but solder should be shiny and pretty and his is really dull.</p>
<p>4) If you are doing a big de/soldering job near surface mount components, you want to be really careful about controlling the board temperature.  I&#8217;ve seen quite a few of them get pushed out of place when the board gets hot enough to soften their solder.</p>
<p>Anyway, I used to do a lot of electronics repair work so I thought I&#8217;d share.</p>
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